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	<title>Comments on: What I Don&#8217;t Know About Bicycles, No. 1</title>
	<link>http://oldfartcycling.org/2007/08/22/what-i-dont-know-about-bicycles-no-1/</link>
	<description>Old and Slow is the Way to Go</description>
	<pubDate>Sun, 20 May 2012 20:38:51 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: michael</title>
		<link>http://oldfartcycling.org/2007/08/22/what-i-dont-know-about-bicycles-no-1/#comment-4</link>
		<author>michael</author>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Aug 2007 15:22:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://oldfartcycling.org/2007/08/22/what-i-dont-know-about-bicycles-no-1/#comment-4</guid>
		<description>I agree, there's little point in following the torque suggestions for some parts, given the variability of the connection you're making. "Just enough to keep it secure" sometimes falls outside the range of the tension guidelines. It obviously allows the manufacturers to avoid some liability with parts that are lightly constructed, and I'd imagine there's quite a bit of room for error in those suggestions. 

Unfortunately, my "twist and pray" strategy hasn't always worked. I've torn off a few keys in stuck locks and if given leverage, I can certainly break a seat binder bolt. Thus, my reliance on the torque wrench. Just last night, I switched to a Craftsman 3/8" beam-type torque wrench from Sears. If you examine it, it appears to be of similar manufacture as the beam-type offerings from Park Tools. You just have to do your own conversion from foot-pounds to inch-pounds, or rely on Nm. It's user-calibrated, too. I recently found out that "click-type" torque wrenches should really be calibrated professionally annually. Thus, this simple, home-use wrench is likely to do a better job. If not, there's always the Effetto...</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I agree, there&#8217;s little point in following the torque suggestions for some parts, given the variability of the connection you&#8217;re making. &#8220;Just enough to keep it secure&#8221; sometimes falls outside the range of the tension guidelines. It obviously allows the manufacturers to avoid some liability with parts that are lightly constructed, and I&#8217;d imagine there&#8217;s quite a bit of room for error in those suggestions. </p>
<p>Unfortunately, my &#8220;twist and pray&#8221; strategy hasn&#8217;t always worked. I&#8217;ve torn off a few keys in stuck locks and if given leverage, I can certainly break a seat binder bolt. Thus, my reliance on the torque wrench. Just last night, I switched to a Craftsman 3/8&#8243; beam-type torque wrench from Sears. If you examine it, it appears to be of similar manufacture as the beam-type offerings from Park Tools. You just have to do your own conversion from foot-pounds to inch-pounds, or rely on Nm. It&#8217;s user-calibrated, too. I recently found out that &#8220;click-type&#8221; torque wrenches should really be calibrated professionally annually. Thus, this simple, home-use wrench is likely to do a better job. If not, there&#8217;s always the Effetto&#8230;</p>
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		<title>By: Sprocketboy</title>
		<link>http://oldfartcycling.org/2007/08/22/what-i-dont-know-about-bicycles-no-1/#comment-3</link>
		<author>Sprocketboy</author>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Aug 2007 20:57:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://oldfartcycling.org/2007/08/22/what-i-dont-know-about-bicycles-no-1/#comment-3</guid>
		<description>Torque can be evil.  I have a Tarmac E5 and have been petrified that I will do something horrible to the stem ($), seatpost ($$) or handlebars ($$$) when I tighten them after taking apart the bike to travel.  No one has ever mistaken me for a mechanic.  So I bought a Park Tools beam-type torque wrench, which is supposed to be pretty accurate and simple.  I discovered that the numbers Specialized gives for tightening the parts are ridiculously low so rather than have an accident when the stem falls off, I just tighten everything with the trusty Y-wrench and pray pray pray.  Nice blog!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Torque can be evil.  I have a Tarmac E5 and have been petrified that I will do something horrible to the stem ($), seatpost ($$) or handlebars ($$$) when I tighten them after taking apart the bike to travel.  No one has ever mistaken me for a mechanic.  So I bought a Park Tools beam-type torque wrench, which is supposed to be pretty accurate and simple.  I discovered that the numbers Specialized gives for tightening the parts are ridiculously low so rather than have an accident when the stem falls off, I just tighten everything with the trusty Y-wrench and pray pray pray.  Nice blog!</p>
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